I have mixed feelings about this one. There were times when it annoyed the hell out of me. Then things would happen that made me admire the ambition and creativity that went into it and think about how great it would be if it didn't insist on repeatedly mucking things up with its flaws.
My gripes about the gameplay generally involve the way-too-frequent random battles. And I guess I just stated the primary problem: there are just too damn many random battles. Laying off the dash button can help a little bit, but then exploration becomes a slower and more tedious task; and some areas will toss you into fights every few seconds no matter how slowly you're proceeding. The fact that the enemies win initiative far more often than your party members doesn't help.
The designers also did well with their take on RPG commerce. When you're looking at an item in a store, the game shows the effect on stats said item will have for each party member. And if you decide to go ahead and buy it, you can equip it right then and there without having to exit the shop menu and open a new one.
But perhaps the best element of all is the dungeon design. "Dungeon" might not be the most appropriate term, though; perhaps "challenge area" would be more accurate, considering the variety of challenges that await you in certain places. You're asked to do a hell of a lot more than trek through mazes: you'll ride enormous spinning gears, climb brambles up castle walls, assume different animal forms to pass unusual trials, and do plenty more.